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Sealing a badly cracked block
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Posted by Dave G on February 24, 2001 at 11:22:49 from (172.175.164.58):
My TO35 block was badly cracked between all four cylinders. I used CRC's copper block sealer, but I didn't use the directions provided. I went above and beyond the directions with great results. CRC's block sealer turns into a copper reinforced, glass like substance. First, you have to clean ALL of the coolant out because the sealer is not compatible with it. I drained the coolant, filled with vinegar, (I figured that it cleans out coffee pots, so why not a tractor engine?) ran the tractor for 20 minutes and drained it. Mass quantities of rusty, brown spooge came out along with the vinegar. Then, I drained the vinegar, filled with water, ran the tractor for 20 minutes and drained it to get all of the vinegar out. Then once more with water, just to be thorough. I then removed the radiator and rigged up a radiator from an old Chevy Impala to keep the sealant out of my nice tractor radiator. I also removed the thermostat, to keep that from getting sealed. Then, as per the provided instructions, dumped in the CRC block sealer and ran the engine for a good hour. Instructions say 20 minutes, so that was just me being anal. After that hour, I drained the cooling system and removed the Chevy radiator. I also drained the oil because I was getting coolant in the oil and didn't want to seal anything up that would restrict oil flow. Now, this stuff is supposed to sit for 24 hours in order to harden. With all of the tiny passages in an engine, how can the cooling system go completely dry in 24 hours? It can't, so I hooked up a mini fan that I bought at Radio Shack for $10, to the lower radiator hose and let it blow fresh air into the block for 48 hours. After 48 hours, I removed the fan and cold flushed the block to get and fine debris out. This method worked like a charm! No more steam spewing out of the tail pipe, no more oil in the coolant and no more coolant in the oil! Hope this helps! ~ Dave
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